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Post by M3RAN on Mar 5, 2005 17:25:03 GMT -5
i'm only goin for max of lets say 15 or 20mm to get rid of the massive gap to a smaller one....and the fact that am not lowering the front...look silly then big is just simply twisting the part that hangs down ?
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Post by BigOL on Mar 5, 2005 17:45:58 GMT -5
No, from how I understand it, you need to actually smack the torsion bar out of the teardrop shaped thing and move it to the height you want it to be, use something to hold it there and then smack the torsion bar back from the other side to fix it in place. You have a bar for each side of the car AFAIK.
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Post by M3RAN on Mar 5, 2005 18:01:34 GMT -5
ye that guide you showed me is good on removing everything but not really good with showin you how to lower it, if you know what i mean... but am gonna need to stick my head under my car 2row to see whats what... i'l understand it better than way reading this showed the picture of the torsion bars from behind the brake disc's etc .... but it for a clio homepage.ntlworld.com/brian.morris5/Torsion%20Bar%20Guide/guide.htm
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Post by BigOL on Mar 5, 2005 18:20:00 GMT -5
It don't show the torsion bar behind any discs!!
You see that splined bit it pic.6 Thats the splines of the torsion bar.
So what you do, is once you got the bar splines out, you physically lift the swing arm (tear drop shaped thing) up a measured amount, say 20mm less than what you measured it was from original height, then you tap the torsion bar back into place the the splines go back in, in different positions.
Thats how I understand it.
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Post by M3RAN on Mar 5, 2005 18:25:45 GMT -5
thats what i meant as in see'ing what your meant to take out from the behind view...... this guy makes it out to be easy as changing the bulbs on the car ;D
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Post by BigOL on Mar 5, 2005 18:29:00 GMT -5
But you can bet its not.
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Post by M3RAN on Mar 5, 2005 18:32:56 GMT -5
i'll just have to find out later on this year... and off course a How to if i do
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Post by teddy on Mar 6, 2005 3:37:01 GMT -5
No quite the opposite, lowering on splines gives you an exact lowering. But it puts more twist in the torsion bar, and with the lowering effect you get a stiffness effect too, which is why if you are lowering more then you should uprate your torsion bar, as the stiffening effect puts more strain through the bar, and a thicker bar will take more strain. I am sure teddy can help you out on the deeper technical side of this procedure. And here i am... The 'Splines' method is where they remove the arm with it still attached to one end of the torsion bar. This only gives you set amounts of lowering. This doesn't effect the stiffness of the torsion bar at all. The best way leaves the arm in place, removes both torsion bars from both ends and then you move the arm up to the desired height. Then you rotate the torsions bars until both sides slot in at the same time. The splines on opposite sides of the torsion bars are offset from each other - this is what allows you to lower the car very accurately. The 'teardrop' shaped plate is the anti roll bar end plate. On a 206 you don't have to touch this at all unless you are changing the ARB. Other cars like Saxos and 106's hide one torsion bar end behind this plate so it needs to be moved. Whatever the drop the stiffness of the bar doesn't change. It's always advisable from a handling point of view to uprate the rear torsion bars if you are also using uprated front springs. These are expensive though.
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