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Post by GTIJAY on Dec 10, 2003 6:06:39 GMT -5
Hi all !! I have a 1999 V reg 206 GTI, fantastic car but I have got problems with the central locking !  The locking "bounces" i.e locks and unlocks again, I have had to take the fuse out and go to my local Peugeot dealer. They have diagnoised water ingress in the central door locking solinoids, the cost??? £180 for parts and £70 for labour !!!!! I have looked on many websites and all say this is a very common problem and to contact Peugeot customer service as they might be able to help. I did contact Peugeot customer services and they were nutsty about the whole thing, they said they had not heard of this problem and as the car was 4 years old would not be interested in contributing to the repair. Trouble is as the central locking dont work, there is no way of locking the boot, so if my car was stolen, the insurance is invalidated !! Thanks so much Peugeot. Has anyone else had this problem? and if so what was the problem and has it returned. My local dealer made me pay for the parts upfront and then told me there would be no refund if it was discovered they were not faulty. Why are the main dealers so crap? Anyway Happy Christmas everyone !! ;D |
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NZGTi
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Post by NZGTi on Dec 10, 2003 22:08:24 GMT -5
Jay... I understand!  My '99 GTi was doing the same thing... Peugeot told me they had never heard of the problem before! As I was having an aftermarket alarm installed the installer took the central locking control off the car... so now is only controlled by the alarm. Alarm & install (including central locking mod) was only NZ$360 - about GBP120. I know this is of little help to you now... but just to let you know there are always ways around Peugeot's inability to fix things cheaply. ;D |
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Post by Adi on Dec 11, 2003 5:25:38 GMT -5
Course its a common problem.
There's a thread elsewhere on this forum about all Peugeots not been bad quality and if people read forums like this one......they would think they were.
The fact is.....that Peugeot have a reputation for not only producing good handling cars, but cars with poor build quality. Not only do they produce them in the first place.......but deny any knowledge of common faults afterwards.
There was a programme on TV a few months ago, about the Peugeot 406......which if the boot lid was banged in the right place.......the boot lid would open on its own.
This happened to many customers.....some lost money and goods thru this experience.......but Peugeot denied all knowledge of it. It took for a TV programme to produce secret film footage of a Peugeot mechanic saying " here comes another of those boot opening jobs that we know nothing about" in a sarcastic tone.
Peugeot UK then and only then......admitted to the fault.
Peugeot France however........still denied any knowledge of the fault.
So.......the fact that your car has a common fault or as Peugeot have you believe.......a "charasteristic" really puts you in no better position.
The central locking actuators become faulty and then the locking "bouces" leaving the car unlocked.
In one way or the other......the actuator or actuators need replacing. Whether you pay Peugeot to do the job or buy the parts and get someone else to do the job is upto you. But I know which one I'd be doing.
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Post by diag2000 on Dec 13, 2003 17:59:09 GMT -5
as a tec for a peugeot agent this IS a common problem yes water does get into the locking motor/door latch causing them to bounce.normaly you can find which one is at fault by locking the drivers door if they bounce then gotot the passenger side and try again if they stay locked then it's the passenger side that is at fault and vise versa if you follow what i mean  ? they are easy to change but be aware that peugeot in there wisdom have changed the wiring (not sure as from what DAM)and only the newer type is avaible which requires the wiring to be modifyed.you should be able to get a copy from the part selling dealeralong with the nessary block connecter and crimps.Best off fitting a new outer weather strip aswell(the one against the window )to try to stop it happening again. |
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Post by BigOL on Dec 15, 2003 16:27:46 GMT -5
For the change in lock wiring I have still got this handy document. Its 493K but your welcome to take it. [ftp]http://ollie.9000rpm.users.btopenworld.com/206_Lock_Wiring_9-pin.jpg[/ftp] and you might also try, www.peugeotlogic.com/workshop/base/workshop.htm top toolbar click electrical, then the left hand index bar and select 206 locking actuator modification. |
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ropper
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Post by ropper on Dec 29, 2003 14:32:51 GMT -5
mines just started to do this last couple of weeks first noticed when driving the doors kept locking themselves then it stopped now i have the same problem as you all i did that test locking the doors with the key sometimes itll work no bother but now the alarm goes off all the time also ive noticed the interior light faintly comes on when i ve got the engine running when its set to come on for an open door and gradually fades when i rev engine
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PaulF
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Post by PaulF on Feb 21, 2004 21:55:29 GMT -5
Can anyone deduce this for me?
The locking is playing up again.
If I open the drivers door, reach in and push the passenger lock down (with drive door open)......the passenger door and boot lock and pop back open.
If I open the passenger door, reach in and push the drivers lock down......the drivers door locks and stays locked.
Which one is at fault??
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Post by diag2000 on Feb 22, 2004 5:57:07 GMT -5
right for starters if a door is open the locks will bounce! sit in the car with all the doors shut try locking the o/s door,if all the locks lock and stay locked this means that ,that motor in the o/s doorlock is sending a signal to the other locks and they are receving and acting on that signal.If they bounce then the signal being sent by the o/s lock is being refused (as though a door is open / faulty motor etc) Then try the n/s door,if all the door lock and stay locked this means the n/s door is sending a signal to the other locks and they are acting on it .if they bounce the signal is being refused So from this if you lock the n/s and they bounce then the o/s is faulty If you lock the the o/s and they bounce then the n/s is faulty And if they will not lock and stay locked from either side then most likey both sides are faulty. please note though that before replacing either it is well worth taking the time to check the wiring (just for broken wires) in the front of the door where they join to the "A" post. Also if you are doing the job yourself try not to rip the door membrain,slice the glue round the edges to avoid getting countless water leaks. if you need any other info just ask  |
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Post by tonyfinn on Feb 22, 2004 6:29:38 GMT -5
...just afoot note: I had the dreaded bouncy lock syndrome. But it wasn't a faulty lock... one of the doors was misaligned! Something ese worth checking!
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PaulF
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Post by PaulF on Feb 22, 2004 7:40:16 GMT -5
Fantastic . Thanks so much guys. Will check now.
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PaulF
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Post by PaulF on Feb 22, 2004 15:01:03 GMT -5
Got it. It is the drivers door thats at fault. The passenger door executes the central locks and then pops up, the drivers door just locks. I will be going to see a guy who will plug his computer thingy (not sure if thats the technical term) into the ECU. What are the chances that this will indicate the problem to them?? I have videod the locks bouncing just in case i need to prove it to them but it is doing it all the time now so they should be able to see but im worried that if his computer doesnt reegister a fault he wont be able to order the part  |
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Post by diag2000 on Feb 22, 2004 15:05:35 GMT -5
faulty door motors don't give a fault code as such
You have to look in the parameteres in the BSI to see which is "pulled" or not.easy if you have got the right kit (diag2000) don't know if aftermarket unit's will do this.
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PaulF
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Post by PaulF on Feb 22, 2004 16:31:54 GMT -5
You have to look in the parameteres in the BSI to see which is "pulled" or not.easy if you have got the right kit (diag2000) don't know if aftermarket unit's will do this. So thats where your name comes from ;D Excellent! The guy says his machines cost 10k each! Hope they are good for that price  Right, at least i know what im asking for now. Thanks eveyrone. |
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PaulF
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Post by PaulF on Feb 23, 2004 18:05:02 GMT -5
Got my car going in on Thursday to sort out problems but was wondering...
....can anything be done to stop the same thing happening to the new door lock to prevent the same thing happening again if it is water penetration???
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Post by BigOL on Feb 23, 2004 19:01:44 GMT -5
Not really, the inner part of the door is not that well protected. You need to prevent the water from getting in between the rubber window strip and the glass, as thats the only real place the water can get in. I would suggest using a rubber silicone protectant, like Armour All (least useful) Auto Glym Rubber and Vinyl Care (Good to fair) Auto Glym Bumper Protection (very good) why this is the best, is because its a gel, and forms a waterproof barrier for much longer. This will then keep the rubber trim suple and thus will keep a good contour with the window.
The door actuator is window side in the door, I mean that there is the outer skin and the inner skin. The inner skin has the talked about membrane over the surface to stop water etc. from getting onto the back of the door card. The outer is obviously the outside part of the door. Well the window winds down between the outer and the inner skins. Tucked up just behind the actual door lock itself is the actuator, located vertically so the wiring plug is also vertical. I guess when water does get in, it runs down the plug and into the socket and voila begins the problem. The only way you could prevent it is heat shrink the entire socket connector to the control box or position the control box horizontally, but the reason Pug didn't do this is because 1. there ain't enough room and 2. cos it would make it harder to get it to marry to the door lock.
Hope you understand this rabble ;D
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? they are easy to change but be aware that peugeot in there wisdom have changed the wiring (not sure as from what DAM)and only the newer type is avaible which requires the wiring to be modifyed.you should be able to get a copy from the part selling dealeralong with the nessary block connecter and crimps.Best off fitting a new outer weather strip aswell(the one against the window )to try to stop it happening again.
